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Clothing Storage

                                   Talking about how to store clothing is definitely unsexy, but it’s important when you invest thousands of dollars into a wardrobe. Storing clothes properly can be the difference between buying dress shirts every year or owning button-ups that last for decades.   First, not every piece of clothing should be stored in the same way. Your clothes can be roughly divided into two storage categories: clothes that should be...

No Shortage of Choices

“The sun, with all those planets revolving around it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else in the universe to do.” - Galileo Galilei There are times, often in the summer months, when I take in the sun and warmth around me and feel quite like the grapes that Galileo describes. And on those occasions, when seemingly everything feels right,...

The Smaller Details in Quality

If you’ve been paying attention to men’s clothing for any period of time, you’re probably well acquainted with how to look for quality. Suits should be half- or fully-canvassed; shoes should be made from full grain leathers; and when possible, shirts should have mother of pearl buttons, rather than plastic ones (although vintage-style plastic buttons do add a nice touch). These, however, are just the basics. For a closer look...

The Short Version

                            The Short Version Shorts...men like Tom Ford and GQ's Glenn O'Brien tend to avoid them, but personally, I find myself waiting with great anticipation for those warm, sticky summer days, when shorts are just about the only appropriate way to cover one's bottom. And who knows, maybe I'm just longing for greener pastures, particularly given that it's expected to snow today, but recently, my desire to sport some shorts...

What's a Chino?

                    Spring is here, and that means it’s time to shift away from heavyweight denim towards lighter weight trousers or, in many cases, chinos. But what’s a chino? And where did they come from?While today the word “chino” has become interchangeable with trousers or khakis, the word itself has a specific connotation rooted in the history of the West. Beginning in the 1800s, the British military was interested in finding...

Too Tough For Its Own Good

                                                                                   I was first introduced to cufflinks when I was 12 years old. I had bought a dress shirt from Brooks Brothers and, instead of having button cuffs, this shirt had two weird rod like fabric objects that felt smooth and looked cool, but didn't seem to be of any use. So, I threw away the two “rod like fabric objects” and when it came time to wear the...

Close To The Chest

                           It's rare in life when you just can't go wrong, but in our second installment of our “coloring outside of the lines,” series, we're going to talk about something that you really can't mess up: pocket squares. If you ever been in a rush to get out the door, in your “same old, same old” (which, don't get me wrong, could still be pretty awesome), and without much time...

Here Comes the Sun...

                                                              For much of the country, the winter was long and hard. But things are finally starting to look up. The sun is shining, temperatures are above freezing on a regular basis, co-workers' moods may have significantly improved, and summer is all too near. Who knows, you may even be changing along with these other welcome changes. Perhaps you are even feeling a bit more whimsical and carefree. However, for...

Supers Ain’t Nothing but a Number

                                            On the sales floor of any boutique nowadays, you’ll find a sales associate encouraging some potential customer to stroke the sleeve of a tailored jacket. “Feel that!,” he or she’ll triumphantly say. “That’s Super 200s wool.” The truth is, super wools are just a numbers game. The traditional way of grading the quality of yarn is to see how much can be spun out of one pound of raw...

Finding a Tailor

                                                              In a perfect world, bespoke clothing and excellent custom tailoring would be affordable and widely available. Commissioning a new suit would be as easy as going to the grocery store – every neighborhood would have its’ own local tailor with their own private atelier. Unfortunately, this clothing nirvana has yet to come to pass, and the vast majority of clothing that most of us will own is considered...

Button Tales

                                                                Traditional men’s clothing – or dress clothing – is full of arcane rules and customs that are often inexplicable, yet are very important in demonstrating to the world that you know how to dress yourself. One of the most common mistakes men make when wearing suit jackets and sport coats is buttoning the bottom button (confession time: we’re guilty of this ourselves sometimes). Unless you’re wearing a one-button jacket,...

The Problem with the “Made in USA” Label

Anyone who lived through the ‘80s probably remembers some of that decade’s classic “buy American” ads. The ones that showed a mother trying to explain to her son why daddy lost his job at the factory, or a group of union workers singing “Buy American” songs. Those ads tried to save a struggling American manufacturing sector by appealing to consumers’ sense of patriotism, but the message was largely ineffective and...

Oh the things we see!

Fashion and technology. The two ideas and the two industries are intertwined to some degree yet opinions of technology among those in fashion often couldn't be farther apart. Innovation and advances in technology have completely revolutionized manufacturing. As a result of technology, it is now possible to manufacture clothing at great scale; develop new designs, washes, textures, and materials; and even provide higher quality goods to the masses, among many...

It's So Choice

Many of us are told, “the world is your oyster” when we are young. Then life happens, things don't turn out like we thought they would, and we no longer believe that the world is filled with endless opportunity. Sometimes in response, we replace our ambitious hopes and dreams for the future with something more realistic and achievable,we limit our potential, and we forget how to dream big and imagine...

Continuing to Grow

Clothes are a form of expression to some, a form of art to others, a necessity to a great many, and a host of other things to a countless number of people. Much like the varied role that clothes play in our lives, so do our thoughts about what it means to have a “complete wardrobe” and when we can stop building our foundational arsenal of threads and start growing...

Building and Growing

We like to think of ourselves as a pretty capable bunch, but even so, we cannot tell you what the “perfect wardrobe” is. Because there really isn't a perfect wardrobe. Everyone's proportions and dimensions, preferences and needs, habitats and climates, and means differ and their “ideal” wardrobes do as well. So, we don't want and we're not going to try to tell you what you should and shouldn't have in...

Less Understood Fibers

                                                      Plant and animal fibers are the building blocks of clothing. They’re what yarns are spun from, and subsequently what fabrics and ultimately clothes are made out of. With certain yarns, we get certain properties. Cotton and linen tend to be lightweight and breathable, merino wool is warm and insulating, and cashmere is soft and luxurious. But what about the other materials we see on our care tags, such as...

Enzyme Washes - Not So Gross After All

                                                                                                                       Not to get all scientific or gross you out, but from time to time, I leave my epidermis exposed...and occasionally, I even wear clothes that have been treated with the same enzymes used to eliminate clumps of indigestible plant material - fibers, skins, and seed - when they are trapped in people's stomachs. Yup, that's how I roll and whether you know it or not, it's probably how...

Why Polyester Isn't A Dirty Word

  When most people think about polyester, they think of the 1970s and the 1980s – shiny, synthetic jackets stretched tight, tucked into stretchy, polyester bellbottoms in bright colors, or flashdance-esque polyester leggings and oversized, baggy polyester shirts. Luckily, over the past forty years polyester, like all fabrics, has improved, and now there’s key advantages to buying fabrics made from a synthetic fabric, or a combination of synthetics and natural...

Shooting Jackets - Just Do It

     I once had a boss that I despised. The man was awful and that's not an opinion, it's a fact. Yet, when I had my one and only shot to make his life a little less pleasant, I didn't take it. It occurred one afternoon when a colleague made a mistake on materials that went out to a client. My boss uttered the following words, “I'm going...

The Tie That Unites The Ties That Separate

Ties... Some of us choose to wear them. Some of us are required to wear them. Most of us don't wear them at all. Some of us love them. Some of us hate them. Most of us don't care about them. Interestingly, for a word that suggests universality, “ties,” people's opinions of them are anything but universal. Furthermore, ties are an everyday part of some people's lives but don't play...

Waterbury Buttons: A Storied Past

  Philly has its cheesesteaks; Chicago has its deep dish pizza; and Waterbury, Connecticut has its buttons. Yup, buttons. And while they are not as tasty as cheesesteaks or deep dish pizza (in fact, to be clear, we DO NOT recommend eating buttons), the Waterbury Button, and the Waterbury Button Company as a whole, is pretty darn special. The Waterbury Button Company is the oldest metal button manufacturer in the...

Fashion is War

  On October 25, 1854, a Russian army attacked the port city of Balaclava on the Black Sea, in hopes of lifting the siege of the nearby Russian port of Sevastopol, which had been under attack by a combined British, French and Turkish force for over a month. This battle was part of the Crimean War, and while fascinating in its own right (especially with the recent tension in the...

Zippers: The Inevitable

                                                 Sir Jonathan Ive, Apple's Senior Vice President of Design, has been called “one of the most inspiring and influential product designers ever.” He is responsible for some of Apple's most revolutionary products like the MacBook Pro, iMac, MacBook Air, iPod, iPod Touch, iPhone, iPad, and iPad Mini. Yet, this creative genius is guided by a fairly simple concept: inevitability. In the words of Ive: “So much of what we...

Tencel: No Need to Sacrifice

                            The environment. The term, particularly when used in the context of “saving the environment,” often prompts a visceral reaction. And while there are nuances, exceptions, and disagreements on environmental policy, what causes environmental damage, and how best to save the environment, I imagine that one would have to search pretty extensively to find someone who is fundamentally anti-environment. Someone who just hates clean air, trees, bunnies, and wants his...

The History of Denim

                                           Today denim is ubiquitous, and there’s rarely an occasion where you don’t see someone wearing some form of denim. But where did denim come from? And how did denim come to define America, and become such an important part of American fashion culture?   Jeans originated from the Italian port of Genoa in the 1500s, where the hardwearing fabric used by sailors was called “bleu de Genes” for its...

Why Shorts Should Cost as Much Pants

Today, I'm going to tell you a story, one that may initially prompt you to initially ask yourself, “what the hell is he talking about?” However, I promise you that it'll all make sense at the end and I think, or at least hope, that you'll be happy that you stuck around to read it. I wouldn't have wrote it otherwise... I expect that many of you have either used...

Thread Count: What Does It Mean and Why It's Important?

                                           Bigger is better. It's a powerful idea. One that makes SUVs so darn appealing, one that explains the remarkable success of Urban Outfitter's “Everything is Bigger in Texas” shirts, and one that customers often fall back on when making decisions about clothing. But perhaps the “bigger is better” mindset is also one that we don't question enough. Well, today that ends as we examine thread count, what it means,...

The Advantage of Whole Garment Knitting

                                                Despite the consumer trend in the last ten years of buyers wanting to learn more about how things are made, companies are still talk about their manufacturing process in very reductive terms. Rare is the brand that won’t simplify their production to just some country-of-origin label, as though everything coming out of a country is of the same quality. Some may talk about the handwork that goes into...

The Importance of Fit

“Clothes and manners do not make the man; but when he is made, they greatly improve his appearance.” - Arthur Ashe Many of us can relate to the following situation: That button down from our favorite designer's S/S line, the one that we've been saving up for, is all sold out in the size we always wear for that designer and in that fit. But we suspend disbelief and convince...

The Duke of Windsor

                                                               It’s hard to isolate legendary figures in the development of fashion – who knows who the first person to roll their jeans was? Who first decided to tuck his pants into his boots? But from this historical ambiguity, there have been a select few whose personal style helped transform what was understood to be classic menswear, and their appreciation of fit and pattern paved the...

Pigment Dyes

                                                                           Robert Frost once wrote, “Nothing gold can stay,” and while he was referring to the slow decay of what was once a pure, simple place - Earth - Frost's words hold true with respect to pigment dyed garments and their color. Because when it comes to pigment dyed apparel, no color - not blue, red, green, orange, yellow, black, silver, or white - can stay. But that's okay....

Beware of Buzzwords

It’s often said that, as a result of the bad economy, companies and consumers alike have refocused on quality. Brands talk more about their production processes and consumers focus on long-term value. Unfortunately, fifteen years later, what passes for a discussion about quality is often little more than a stringing together of buzzwords. Read through any product description to see what I mean. You can easily flip words around –...

Leather Belts

Most men don’t give belts a lot of thought. You have a black belt and a brown belt (maybe just a double sided belt) and that’s it. While this approach might keep the size of your closet manageable, which is a laudable goal, it stops you from appreciating all the intricacies of a well-crafted belt, and the variety of belts that exist. The most important component of a belt is...

Overdyeing

Perhaps you've seen a friend's pair of jeans fade from black to blue and wondered what happened. Or maybe you've seen the terms “overdye,” “overdyed,” or “overdyeing” while cruising the interweb for fashion knowledge.  In one way or another, there's a good chance that “overdyeing” or some form of it has made its way into your life but maybe not into your vocabulary. Kind of like the word “perfunctory.” (Note:...

Grade Six

Browse through online clothing forums today, where tailored clothing enthusiasts congregate, and you’ll find dozens of threads where people argue over which makers produce the best suits. In fact, in one StyleForum thread, there’s a working hierarchical list that aims to organize producers according to tiers. One user suggests that Kiton be placed under the “Excellent” category, while Canali is just “Good” and Brooks Brothers is simply “Satisfactory.” A couple...

What's a Jacquard?

If the world can thank GQ and #menswear for anything, it might be the return of bold prints to the clothing mainstream. Where five years ago you’d find nothing but an array of white, blue – and if daring – pink medium weight oxford cloths, now you can see exotic patterns gracing shirts everywhere. Even business casual mavens aren’t afraid to throw on an indigo dot or sailboat print button...

Clothes Are Not Commodities

A common misconception today is that clothes are just commodities. That is, if you find two similarly styled shirts – blue, striped, and spread collared – then they’re substitutable and differ only in price. This is an understandable attitude when you consider how few men today understand how clothes are made, or are able to meet the men and women who produce what they wear. Contrast this to the early...

Whole garment knitting

It’s both easy and difficult to determine the quality of a sweater. It’s easy in the sense that there aren’t many variables to consider, at least in comparison to suit jackets and sport coats. A well made sweater will be densely knitted, which will require more material, but also allow the garment to hold its shape better. The yarns will also be made from longer fibers, which will give it...

A Tale of Love & Loss

This past week we have been showing at Capsule for Men's Market and our Fall '13 collection has been quite popular. So popular in fact that one of our cornerstone pieces was stolen from our booth. Our black cable knit sweater jacket was, well, jacked.     In a way it's flattering that someone would forgo being a decent human being and wait until it hits retail to pick one...

Last Day of the Black Friday Sale!

 It's the last day of the Black Friday Sale and there are some choice picks left for the upcoming holiday party barrage you surely will be hit with! The Pine Green cashmere sweater paired with Lavender striped button down (available in either Before or After Dinner) and Golden Gray Bloodline trousers is a killer holiday kit.     originally $425, now $212.50  originally $185 now $92.50 originally $400, now $200...

Got Wood?

There are too many black case-less iPhone 4S' floating around so finding a way to distinguish one phone from another without adding a bulky case and not compromise the aesthetics of our phones was assumed to be a challenge. Luckily, Monolith makes incredible replacement backs for iPhone 4's and 4S'.  The installation takes all of a couple minutes and the end result is about as perfect as any person could...

Green Soccer Journal Issue no.4

    (Im)Patiently waiting for issue four of Green Soccer Journal to arrive in the mail is the current state of affairs this afternoon. For those who aren't familiar, this magazine marries editorials on style and soccer. What more could anyone want? If you are like us and accosting your Postal Service worker during his or her route, let this video, starting Phil Daniels from "Quadrophenia" as a frustrated soccer manager, satiate you until your copy...

Cloud Atlas

David Mitchell's Cloud Atlas is one of the best books we've read in recent memory. Hearing that the story was being adapted for film and the Wachowskis were saddled with directing duties developed excitement and a bit of nervousness as to how the subject material would be treated. After seeing the extended trailer, those uncertain feelings are no longer there. The six minutes spent watching is certainly worth it.  

Pimms Autumn Cup

(photo courtesy of: Alcademics) Everyone should be well aware by now that the Wolf vs Goat staple cocktail is Pimm's Cup. Using Pimm's No 3., it is arguably the perfect summer beverage. Now that the seasons are starting to change for us here, it's time to think about changing up our drink selection. Thankfully for us there is Pimm's Winter, a Brandy-based alternative to the Gin-based No 3. which makes...

Morning Reminder: The Wolf vs Goat Thrid Annual Pig Roast

It's feeling like fall in the DMV and you can finally start pulling out some cool layering pieces you've been itching to wear. The feeling of fall is also a clear signal around here that the Wolf vs Goat Third Annual Pig Roast is right around the corner. If you haven't been made aware of this event yet: on September 29th, there will be a roasted pig and goat over a...

WvG on today's 'Shop Talk'

    Valet Magazine was gracious enough to feature us today in their Shop Talk section. Check it out here!

Trending America

The idea of heritage and dedication to "made in the USA" has been a trend in menswear for the past couple of years. While it's certainly a positive goal to attain, the ideal for many isn't just a marketing tool but rather a way of life.  We were sent this cool music video that brings visual weight to a part of our work force that doesn't think about "how we...