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We make both, and we've chosen trouser by trouser. Our cargo pants are flat front. Every tailored trouser we cut at the moment is pleated, with one pleat or two. That isn't a statement about fashion. It's what each of those trousers has to do, and it's the fastest way to settle the pleated versus flat front question for yourself. The short answer Go flat front on slim, casual trousers, where a clean line matters more than room. Go pleated for a higher rise, a fuller seat or thigh, a crisp cloth that holds a fold, and anything you'll sit...

Most fit advice for dress trousers is written by people who have never cut a pattern. It tends to describe a look rather than a fit, which leaves you no way to tell whether the pair you are wearing is wrong or just unfamiliar. What follows is the version we would give someone standing in our fitting room, working through the places a trouser either fits or does not. The short answer Dress trousers should sit at or just above your hip bone without a belt holding them up, skim the seat without pulling or sagging, allow you to pinch...

Our trousers arrive with the hem unfinished. That surprises people the first time, so it is worth saying plainly why we do it. Everyone's leg is a different length, everyone wears different shoes, and break is a preference rather than a rule. We would rather send you a trouser that is deliberately long and let you set the length with a tailor than send you a factory guess that is wrong for you and impossible to lengthen. Break in one paragraph Break is the fold, or crease, that appears at the front of the trouser leg where the hem meets...

Part 3 of The Wolf vs Goat Guide to Menswear One of the questions I hear most often is: "What's the best fabric for trousers?" It's a simple question, but it doesn't have a simple answer. Choosing cloth isn't like choosing a paint color. The best fabric depends on where you'll wear the trousers, the climate you live in, how often you'll wear them, and how you want the garment to perform. That's why we never choose fabrics based on prestige alone. We choose them because they're the right cloth for the garment we're trying to create. To understand why,...