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Part 5 of The Wolf vs Goat Guide to Menswear I fit a lot of trousers, and one of the most common problems I see is also one of the easiest to spot: the pants are simply too tight. For a long time, menswear pushed this idea that a closer fit was automatically a better fit. Thighs got slimmer, rises got lower, leg openings got smaller, and eventually a lot of guys ended up wearing pants that were fighting their bodies. That's not what I'm looking for when I fit a pair of trousers. I'm looking at the whole picture....

Every few weeks somebody writes to ask why our trousers sit higher than they expected. It is not an error and it is not a trend we are chasing. Rise is a deliberate measurement, it decides how a trouser hangs from the waist down, and almost nobody selling trousers bothers to explain it. Once you know what the number means, you can buy with far more confidence and stop blaming the wrong part of the garment when something feels off. What rise actually measures Rise is the distance from the top of the waistband down to the crotch seam, measured...

                            The Short Version Shorts...men like Tom Ford and GQ's Glenn O'Brien tend to avoid them, but personally, I find myself waiting with great anticipation for those warm, sticky summer days, when shorts are just about the only appropriate way to cover one's bottom. And who knows, maybe I'm just longing for greener pastures, particularly given that it's expected to snow today, but recently, my desire to sport some shorts has grown exponentially and I find myself mulling over the topic on the reg. But up until a few years ago, though I looked forward to summer and my shorts...