Blog

Part 5 of The Wolf vs Goat Guide to Menswear I fit a lot of trousers, and one of the most common problems I see is also one of the easiest to spot: the pants are simply too tight. For a long time, menswear pushed this idea that a closer fit was automatically a better fit. Thighs got slimmer, rises got lower, leg openings got smaller, and eventually a lot of guys ended up wearing pants that were fighting their bodies. That's not what I'm looking for when I fit a pair of trousers. I'm looking at the whole picture....

How Great Trousers Are Pressed: Why Pressing Is Part of Construction, Not Just Finishing Part 4 of The Wolf vs Goat Guide to Menswear When most people hear the word "pressing," they think of the last thing that happens before a garment is finished. The trousers are made. Someone presses them. They're inspected, packed, and shipped. That's not how a properly made pair of trousers is constructed. At Wolf vs Goat, pressing isn't simply the final step. It's part of the construction process itself. After pieces are joined, they're pressed appropriately before the next stage of construction begins. That process...

We make both, and we've chosen trouser by trouser. Our cargo pants are flat front. Every tailored trouser we cut at the moment is pleated, with one pleat or two. That isn't a statement about fashion. It's what each of those trousers has to do, and it's the fastest way to settle the pleated versus flat front question for yourself. The short answer Go flat front on slim, casual trousers, where a clean line matters more than room. Go pleated for a higher rise, a fuller seat or thigh, a crisp cloth that holds a fold, and anything you'll sit...

Most fit advice for dress trousers is written by people who have never cut a pattern. It tends to describe a look rather than a fit, which leaves you no way to tell whether the pair you are wearing is wrong or just unfamiliar. What follows is the version we would give someone standing in our fitting room, working through the places a trouser either fits or does not. The short answer Dress trousers should sit at or just above your hip bone without a belt holding them up, skim the seat without pulling or sagging, allow you to pinch...