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The Duke of Windsor

                                                               It’s hard to isolate legendary figures in the development of fashion – who knows who the first person to roll their jeans was? Who first decided to tuck his pants into his boots? But from this historical ambiguity, there have been a select few whose personal style helped transform what was understood to be classic menswear, and their appreciation of fit and pattern paved the way for what we know today.   Within classic menswear, Prince Edward, the Duke of Windsor, the namesake of the Windsor and half-Windsor knot stands out. Born in 1894 to...

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Overdyeing

Perhaps you've seen a friend's pair of jeans fade from black to blue and wondered what happened. Or maybe you've seen the terms “overdye,” “overdyed,” or “overdyeing” while cruising the interweb for fashion knowledge.  In one way or another, there's a good chance that “overdyeing” or some form of it has made its way into your life but maybe not into your vocabulary. Kind of like the word “perfunctory.” (Note: give this post more than just a perfunctory read) Well today that ends...   Overdyeing is a form of dyeing, a general term for the industrial process of adding color...

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What's a Jacquard?

If the world can thank GQ and #menswear for anything, it might be the return of bold prints to the clothing mainstream. Where five years ago you’d find nothing but an array of white, blue – and if daring – pink medium weight oxford cloths, now you can see exotic patterns gracing shirts everywhere. Even business casual mavens aren’t afraid to throw on an indigo dot or sailboat print button down. When buying these shirts, though, it’s important to bear in mind that not all patterned shirts are created equal: there are shirts made from fabrics produced by Jacquard weaving...

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Whole garment knitting

It’s both easy and difficult to determine the quality of a sweater. It’s easy in the sense that there aren’t many variables to consider, at least in comparison to suit jackets and sport coats. A well made sweater will be densely knitted, which will require more material, but also allow the garment to hold its shape better. The yarns will also be made from longer fibers, which will give it fewer “weak points” (microscopic to the eye), and thus result in less pilling. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to tell whether a sweater is made from a good yarn by simply looking...

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