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How Great Trousers Are Pressed: Why Pressing Is Part of Construction, Not Just Finishing Part 4 of The Wolf vs Goat Guide to Menswear When most people hear the word "pressing," they think of the last thing that happens before a garment is finished. The trousers are made. Someone presses them. They're inspected, packed, and shipped. That's not how a properly made pair of trousers is constructed. At Wolf vs Goat, pressing isn't simply the final step. It's part of the construction process itself. After pieces are joined, they're pressed appropriately before the next stage of construction begins. That process...

We make both, which is either a cop out or the most useful thing anyone in this argument can tell you. The pleated versus flat front debate is usually fought as a style war, with each side claiming the other is dated. From where we sit, cutting both, it is a question about the trouser rather than about you, and the honest answer changes depending on the cloth, the cut and what you are doing in them. Meta title: Pleated or Flat Front Trousers and How to Decide Meta description: What a pleat is actually for, what flat front costs...

Most fit advice for dress trousers is written by people who have never cut a pattern. It tends to describe a look rather than a fit, which leaves you no way to tell whether the pair you are wearing is wrong or just unfamiliar. What follows is the version we would give someone standing in our fitting room, working through the places a trouser either fits or does not. The short answer Dress trousers should sit at or just above your hip bone without a belt holding them up, skim the seat without pulling or sagging, allow you to pinch...

Our trousers arrive with the hem unfinished. That surprises people the first time, so it is worth saying plainly why we do it. Everyone's leg is a different length, everyone wears different shoes, and break is a preference rather than a rule. We would rather send you a trouser that is deliberately long and let you set the length with a tailor than send you a factory guess that is wrong for you and impossible to lengthen. Break in one paragraph Break is the fold, or crease, that appears at the front of the trouser leg where the hem meets...